Gunpla Grades Explained

Every Gunpla box says "HG" or "MG" or "RG" somewhere on the front, and if you're new to the hobby that alphabet soup doesn't mean much. Here's what each grade actually gets you — in scale, part count, articulation, and price — so you can pick the right kit instead of guessing.

The five core grades, compared

SD (Super Deformed)

Chibi-proportioned kits with a big head and short body, built for speed and character rather than accuracy. Part counts are low (often under 100) and snap together fast, which makes SD a genuinely good first kit if you just want to see if building is fun before spending more.

HG (High Grade), 1/144 scale

The backbone of the hobby. HG covers more Gundam series and specific mobile suit variants than any other grade — if a mecha appeared in a show, there's a decent chance it exists in HG. Most HG kits snap-fit without glue, use color-separated plastic so you don't have to paint to get a screen-accurate look, and take an evening rather than a weekend to finish. This is the grade most builders are pointed to first.

RG (Real Grade), 1/144 scale

Same 1/144 footprint as HG, but engineered to pack in an MG-style inner frame, more articulation points, and realistic panel lining molded into the plastic itself. RG kits are noticeably more complex to assemble — smaller parts, more of them, and some famously fragile joints — so they suit builders who've finished a few HG kits and want more detail without stepping up to 1/100.

MG (Master Grade), 1/100 scale

Roughly double the linear size of HG/RG, with part counts often in the 200–400 range, a fully articulated inner frame under the armor, and enough surface detail that panel lining and simple weathering make a real visible difference. MG is where most builders land as their main "serious" grade — big enough to show off detail work, not so large it needs a shelf to itself.

PG (Perfect Grade), 1/60 scale

The largest, most detailed, most expensive mainline grade — sometimes 1,000+ parts, complete internal frames with moving pistons and cables, and LED-light compatibility on many releases. PG kits are a significant time and money investment, generally recommended once you already know you love the hobby rather than as a starting point.

Specialty grade lines

You'll also see these on GunplaDB — they're variations on the core grades above, usually tied to a specific sub-series:

• HGUC — High Grade Universal Century: HG-scale kits specifically from the original UC timeline (0079, Zeta, ZZ, CCA, etc).
• HGCE — High Grade Cosmic Era: HG-scale kits from the SEED/SEED Destiny timeline.
• HGBF / HGBD — High Grade Build Fighters / Build Divers: HG-scale kits from the "Gunpla within Gunpla" Build series.
• RE/100 — Real Entry 1/100: budget-friendly 1/100 kits for suits that never got a full MG treatment.
• FM (Full Mechanics) — 1/100 kits with MG-level internal frame detail at a lower price point than a full MG.
• EG (Entry Grade) — Bandai's simplest, cheapest, tool-free kits — even faster builds than SD for absolute beginners.
• 30MM (30 Minute Missions) — a separate, original mecha line (not tied to Gundam's anime continuity) built around fast, poseable, mix-and-match kits.

Which grade should you start with?

If you've never built a plastic model before, start with an HG or an EG — both are inexpensive, forgiving, and don't require glue, paint, or tools beyond a side cutter. Once you've finished two or three and want more detail, an MG is the natural next step. Save RG for when you're comfortable with small, fiddly parts, and treat PG as a long-term goal rather than a starting point.